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SAVERNAKE FOREST Click here to open up a map of the site. Note that you can move around the area by using the buttons around the map and enlarge or reduce the scale by using the buttons below the map. Click on your back button to return to this page.
MAP REFERENCES O.S. Explorer 157 Marlborough and Savernake
INTRODUCTION Modern Savernake situated to the south of Marlborough is a clearly defined block of mixed woodland with some parkland and a few fields. Nine hundred and fifty years ago the scene would have been very different. The forest was much larger, and made up of small woods and coppices, separated by heath, scrub and downland. Savernake is unique in that documents recording it's management from about 1086 to the present day survive, providing a wealth of historical insight, glimpses of dark political intrigues and Royal collusions. The earliest mention of the forest is recorded as far back as 934 AD, when King Athelstan refers to 'the crofts alongside the woodland called Safernoc'. Of these times little more is known, but the forest was certainly a remnant of the primeval forest belt, which had been partially cleared by the Romans and Saxons. It seems that a Saxon named Aluric was the first recorded 'occupier' of the land, and he was probably the 'Kings man' maintaining the land as a Royal hunting preserve. Unfortunately for Aluric, the situation changed abruptly in 1066 with the Norman invasion, and Savernake became the Royal property of William the Conqueror. Sometime after the Battle of Hastings, King William appointed the first warden to watch over his new-found riches, he was called Richard Estormit (or Esturney or Esturmey). Richard and his descendants have been the hereditary wardens in an unbroken line right through to the 31st and present incumbent, the Earl of Cardigan. The Savernake wardens have watched over the forest for nearly 950 years, through all the social and economic turmoil that this length of time carries with it. That the forest still exists, and remains a beautiful and tranquil place to visit, is mainly down to the perseverance and, in some cases, stubbornness of these dedicated people. 'The Wardens of Savernake Forest' by Cardigan is compelling further reading.
ACCESS Savernake Forest is private property, leased by the Earl of Cardigan to the Forestry Commission who manage most of the Estate. Vehicular access is now restricted to one or two main routes, however, access by foot to the many paths and tracks is allowed providing these are kept to, and disturbance is kept to a minimum. The best place to park is at the Eight Walks, the site of an old gibbet. This, as the name suggests, is the convergence of eight tracks, and is located half way down the Grand Avenue at map ref. SU226668. The easiest way to find the entrance to the Grand Avenue is to take the A4 at Marlborough and head towards Hungerford. Turn right 100 metres past the brow of the hill, just after Savernake Hospital and the Cricket ground. The large gateposts (SU210683) identify the entrance off the A4. Please park sensibly and secure your car carefully, unfortunately thefts and damage to vehicles are recorded each year. But don't let this put you off as you are now in a perfect place to enjoy the forest, well away from the bulk of visitors at the northern picnic site.
SPECIES TO BE SEEN Savernake is a big forest. The northern portion is largely planted with young oak and beech. The southern half still contains areas of ancient woodland which are far more attractive to the wildlife, so exploring the southern part of the forest will normally be more productive. You will need a map, as the tracks and paths intersect and it is easy to lose your bearings. Winter will always be quiet, but hawfinch, crossbill, brambling, woodcock and siskin are recorded almost annually. Spring and summer are entirely different. Migrants that can be quite common in Somerset can be hard to locate in Wiltshire, but Savernake, especially the southern half attracts wood warbler, redstart, turtle dove, tree pipit, nightingale, hobby and in the summer, nightjar. The fir plantations are being cleared and replanted systematically, so daytime scouting for suitable nightjar habitat is worthwhile. Barn, tawny and little owls can be found, as can all three species of woodpecker, but lesser spotted are difficult. Pied flycatchers are rare in Wiltshire, especially as a breeding species, but occasional records exist and they should always be looked out for. Common woodland species can be found in abundance, and there is always a chance of something more unusual, so keep an eye in the air for raven, red kite, honey buzzard and goshawk. Although these last four species are unconfirmed, very occasional sightings have been made.
TIMING As with any woodland you could walk all day and see very little, so morning or evening in spring and summer are always the best times. Even if the birds are a bit hard to find, wild flowers and butterflies add to the atmosphere. Visit on a week day if possible, it will be quieter, but away from the picnic areas people are always few and far between.
OTHER THINGS OF INTEREST Savernake is a SSSI, not for the birds, but for the Fungi. Now there's a challenge! Deer are common, with fallow, roe and muntjac all being widespread. There are some red deer, but these are largely confined to the park around Tottenham House. A column which originally stood in a London square has been transported to the forest and stands a mile or so from the Eight Walks. The inscription makes interesting reading, as do some of the track names, 'Marie Louise drive' and 'charcoal burners road'. You may also find the remnants and foundations of old buildings. These are not so ancient, but date back to the last war, when the forest was used as an immense ammunition dump. Will Ponting
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